It’s
difficult to believe that a year and a half has passed since Karmen and I
relocated to the captivating peninsula once dominated by dinosaurs. The crash
site of the gigantic meteor that caused their demise is just off the northern
coast, where the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico, Atlantic Ocean and
Caribbean Sea meet. Much more recently, this tropical paradise has been
populated and developed by ancient and modern Mayans, ruthless Spanish
conquistadors, English pirates, Italian architects, Korean tradesmen, Arab
merchants, artists, entrepreneurs, and contemporary expatriates from
everywhere. In addition to numerous
natural treasures like idyllic beaches, lush jungles, breathtaking caverns and
cenotes, and unlimited fresh water, what attracted them and us are the uniquely
cultured lifestyle and friendly people of this region of magnificent Mexico.
And, of course, the food.
The vibrant
city of Merida was already a ceremonial center known as T’ho when the Spanish
arrived around 1500 AD. Systematically,
they captured, destroyed and re-used the stones of temples and palaces to build
imposing churches and lavish palaces. The Maya strongly resisted and decades of
bloody history ensued. After Mexican independence, and the unification and
reformation coinciding with the US Civil War, the peninsula generally settled
down as powerful revolutionaries became prosperous businessmen and landowners,
amassing extraordinary fortunes during the henequen (sisal) boom of the late 19th
and early 20th centuries. This type of agave provided strong fibers
for all of the rope manufactured, and was cultivated on large plantations
called haciendas, which controlled most of the land and socio-political system.
By 1910 Merida was a sophisticated town, home to more millionaires per capita
than anywhere else. They travelled to
Europe and Asia, returning with attitudes and fashions that styled the mansions
and boulevards of the developing city, as well as the splendid hacienda
estates, some of which have been converted into luxurious retreats for present
day travelers.
The
indigenous Maya typically became laborers and servants, but their culture
endured and pervades many aspects of life here.
Mayan language is heard widely, and our current eco-consciousness and
spirituality are informed by their ancient knowledge and folklore. Majestic archaeological sites attest to their
advanced awareness and provide mind-blowing touristic opportunities. Long since
the natives naively welcomed the invading conquerors, tourism has been
extremely important for the region and will certainly dominate the future. Now, we are here to create new experiences for
us and for our visitors.
The last 18
months have been a roller-coaster adventure. After a marvelous road trip across
the maligned border and through some of the most beautiful and varied landscape
of the Estados Unidos Mexicanos, we settled in at the Hacienda Xixim, a unique
bamboo plantation in the middle of the jungle about 20 minutes by car from
Uxmal, one of the most impressive Maya cities. Uxmal’s distinctive main pyramid
of rounded corners is fantastic, and the elegantly decorated quadrangle is
spectacular, perfect for the slightly campy sound and light show that is
presented there nightly. Staying at one of the luxurious onsite lodges allows
for plenty of time to wander and meditate before and after the guided tour
groups appear. Unfortunately, Hacienda Xixim, the eco-lodge will not be an
option, due to the stupidity of the owner who aborted the project after two
months of hard work. However, that’s what got us here, and the experience was priceless. The best thing that happened
was finding and adopting an abandoned puppy who I named Xixim, which is
pronounced she-sheem and means seashell in Mayan. Seashells were used as
pre-Columbian currency and discovered when the hacienda was founded, hence the
name.
The next
month K, X and I stayed in Merida, recuperating from the sudden abortion, and
pondering the future. Having enjoyed the rhythms of the countryside more than
the bustle of the city center, we decided to check out Valladolid, a historic and
pretty colonial town in central Yucatan.
Our two months stay there was just too quiet, so despite having nice
friends there and a cute $100 a month apartment, we headed back to Merida. A
couple of unpleasant temporary living arrangements and rocky relationships
later we landed in Colonia Mexico, a shady neighborhood of wide avenues, a
beautiful park and lots of great restaurants. Convenient to the cultural
attractions, but away from the noise and dust of the Centro Historico, it has
been ideal for adjusting to the leisurely lifestyle of the city.
Merida’s
tropical climate is a magnet for North Americans and Europeans escaping harsh
winters, and many have decided to settle permanently, adding variety to the
cultural, social, and gastronomic offering.
Numerous public and private efforts protect and improve the
infrastructure for travelers and residents, while economic growth and rampant development
provide limitless options in housing, education, employment and entertainment.
Festivals are constant. Recently, I attended concerts by Philip Glass, Lila
Downs and the world class Yucatan Symphony, and performances of plays by
Beckett, Brecht, and a band of Brazilians portraying the life of Frida and
Diego. An exhibit of Rembrandts, interventions by James Turrell, and a
meditation with Deepak Chopra were extraordinary. I caught some of the German
and French Film Festivals, saw classics and documentaries at the independent
art houses, and the latest Mexican and Hollywood productions at the megaplex in
Altabrisa mall, which also houses Apple and Mont Blanc stores, L’Occitane, and
P.F. Chang’s. Better Chinese and
excellent sushi are a short walk from my house, as are the tastiest tacos,
finest fondues, perfect pizzas, best bakeries, and super supermarkets. Of
course, Mexican cuisine dominates, with many regions represented. The recipes of Yucatan are tasty, but very
different from the dishes of Chiapas or Michoacan. One of my favorite eateries
serves comida chilanga – Mexico City style. Groovy, celebrated kitchens
transform timeless organic ingredients into sensational flavors and aromas with
the latest trends and technology. Local farmers supply the freshest meats and produce,
and the long coastline provides abundant marine delicacies. Exotic tropical
fruits in many forms appear at every meal. Everything can be found at the giant
central market; almost everything at the Mega down the street.
I truly
appreciate all the modern comforts and conveniences, yet the clashes and
contradictions with history and tradition make every day fun and interesting.
On the streets it’s common to see transportation methods of any number of legs
and wheels. Women from the villages come to market wearing their embroidered
huipiles and using their cell phones. On the most formal occasions men of every
social position wear their crisp white guayaberas and the ladies show off their
lacy three-piece ternos and all the gold chains and filigree they can carry.
Contemporary artists and designers combine ancient motifs and modern fashions
with stunning results, while artisans produce all kinds of crafts and wares as
they have for centuries. The quality and variety of accessible art is
stimulating and gratifying. Thus, I have been inspired and encouraged to share
my experiences and finally write them down. Hopefully, you will stay tuned in
to my new blog and accept my wholehearted invitation to come visit. From
Houston it’s a 90-minute flight across the Gulf of Mexico (closer than El
Paso), and like another world. An unforgettable experience is guaranteed, and
who knows – you might be enticed to stay, too!
